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On Monday 3 June 2002, 13,000 members of the public were invited by The Queen to attend a unique pop concert in the least likely venue - the gardens of Buckingham Palace. As each one entered the quadrangle, they were handed a blue picnic bag by Royal Household staff. The concert over, each and every guest departed clutching their bag: a souvenir of an historic day.
The picnics were a break from the norm in terms of catering at Buckingham Palace, an unusual and pleasant diversion from the receptions and banquets that are the normal daily business for the skilled men and women who work in the catering team.
F Branch, a major section of the Master of the Household's department, is the part of the Royal Household which is responsible for catering and food aspects of hospitality in the Royal Palaces. The F stands for 'food'. Work ranges from preparing meals for The Queen and other members of the Royal Family to serving food to around 400 of the staff that make up the Royal Household.
Run by Andrew Farquharson, Assistant to the Master of the Household, it comprises three main areas: the office which administrates the department; the staff dining facilities; and, most importantly, the Royal kitchen.
Andrew Farquharson gives an insight into how rewarding the long hours can be and what it is that drives the department: "When it comes to food, The Queen has very high standards in the hospitality which she offers to her guests. The kitchen, and F Branch as a whole, enjoys the challenge of living up to Her Majesty's expectations. We are always aiming to improve and adapt wherever possible."
The Royal kitchen, on first inspection, appears to be a maze of rooms, spreading through most of the south-west corner of the Buckingham Palace basement. But new staff soon learn how to navigate from delivery bay to larder kitchen then on to the pastry via the main kitchen.
The brigade of twenty chefs, ranging from experienced sous chefs to young apprentice chefs just beginning their careers, is led by Royal Chef Mark Flanagan, who took up his post in 2002. The previous Royal Chef, Lionel Mann, had held his position for 40 years, since arriving in the kitchen as a young man to help cut sandwiches for Princess Margaret's wedding in 1960.
One of the Royal kitchen's greatest strengths is its tradition of mixing experienced chefs with junior cooks plying their trade. The Royal kitchen is truly a place to learn, with pressures as demanding as the busiest high-class hotel. The kitchen really comes to life when Royal functions are being prepared. Mark Flanagan and his team are called upon on a daily basis to provide food of the highest standard. The State Apartments provide a splendid venue for a luncheon hosted by The Queen, and it is the Royal chefs who are charged with the responsibility of making sure the food is just as special.
While members of the Royal Household staff are offered a varied menu to meet the changing needs of a large group of people, The Queen chooses every menu personally. The process begins with Andrew and Mark putting forward two possible menus for The Queen's approval. She will choose whichever menu she prefers. The same process is adhered to whenever The Queen or any other member of the Royal Family hosts a function at Buckingham Palace.
The number of functions at Buckingham Palace can vary depending on the time of year and the location of The Queen. When The Queen travels to other residences - Windsor Castle, the Palace of Holyroodhouse in Edinburgh, Balmoral Castle in the north of Scotland or Sandringham House in Norfolk - a small team of chefs and staff travels with her to provide meals and make arrangements for any events being held during the stay.
Iona Walker, F Branch's administrator, explains how events beyond the department's control can affect how busy the Royal kitchen gets: "The density of functions can vary depending on The Queen's location. Buckingham Palace can be quieter during Her Majesty's visit to Balmoral Castle, for example, but there is always something to keep us on our toes! Feeding 400 staff is, in itself, a considerable task. Everyone in F Branch works very hard to ensure that all events hosted by The Queen, members of the Royal Family and senior members of the Royal Household are a success. This often means catering for events in London and Aberdeenshire simultaneously."
Not surprisingly, there are some events which appear on the calendar every year. Functions are prepared around Easter at Windsor Castle when The Queen hosts 'dine and sleep' events for guests including politicians and diplomats. June sees events organised around Royal Ascot, and November rounds off Buckingham Palace's year with a diplomatic reception for over 1,500 ambassadors and their guests.
While the Golden Jubilee Year of 2002 saw many unique events added to the diary, 2003 sees the return of one of Buckingham Palace's most significant functions. In June, Buckingham Palace will host its first State Visit since November 1999, when President Putin and Madame Putina will be The Queen's guests in London. Ironically, it was due to the refurbishment of the Royal kitchen that The Queen hosted recent State Visits by the King of Jordan and the President of South Africa at Windsor Castle instead of Buckingham Palace.
Planning and delivering an event such as a State Visit is an enormous task, especially when you consider the main event: the State Banquet. Although a State Banquet is not F Branch's largest function in terms of numbers, it requires such attention to detail that everyone involved must dedicate themselves entirely to their work.
Event planning often begins months in advance but for F Branch detailed planning begins, in most cases, two weeks in advance. To ensure that the food is fresh and of the highest standard, deliveries are normally made on the day before the function. Peter Walter, part of the department's purchasing team, explains the value of reliable suppliers: "Suppliers to The Queen are naturally aware of the need to deliver the very best goods possible. We strive to ensure that the food we provide is of the highest order. This ordinarily means having food delivered the day before a reception, for example, leaving just the right amount of time for it to be expertly prepared by the chefs."
The Royal kitchen rarely experiences two days the same. It is this variety that ensures Buckingham Palace has one of London's most exciting kitchens. New standards were set by the Golden Jubilee Year. As the Royal kitchen embarks on 2003 only one thing is on everyone's minds: raising the standards further still. This is, after all, The Queen's kitchen, and only the best will do.
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